There are two good reasons to replace your door closer if you suspect it is failing.  The first and most important is security.  If it fails it may not close all the way and the door may not latch and some unwanted person may enter the premises the lock on the door is meant to keep out.  The second reason is that hydraulic fluid in the door closer may leak out onto the door and floor and leave a terrible stain that is impossible to get out.  It also smells really badly.

The door closer’s purpose is first to close the door, and second to regulate the speed with which the door closes.  It ensures that unless somebody leaves an obstruction in the doorway, the door will close.  It is then a nearly fool-proof method of securing a door when that door has a latching lock on it.  If the door closer is not properly configured or a gasket fails and the hydraulic fluid leaks out, the door may not close with enough force for the lock’s latch to engage, allowing people to push the door open and enter without a key.

Bottom line is if you notice that your door is closing faster or slower than usual or barely latching shut, or if there is a sticky oily brown mess leaking out of it, it may be time to replace it in which case you ought to give me a call.  My charges are a service call of $65 to North Seattle in addition to:

• Labor for Replacement: $45
• Parts, depending on traffic and weight of door: $120-350

Mag plates, or wrap around plates, are useful in numerous situations.  Consider the unfortunate soul whose house has been broken into, or at least was attempted.  The rapscallions may have used a crowbar or something to attempt to pry the door open or pry the lock off the door, leaving unsightly marks in the wood on the door and the door jamb.  The marks on the door can be covered using a mag plate.

The mag plate covers up unsightly marks, but it also serves to reinforce the door.  If we consider the door that was molested by neighborly urban youths, it may have lost some of its structural integrity during its trials.  Structurally, the mag plate can reinforce the door in a retrofit situation as well.

Lots of old houses have what are called mortise locks, and they are generally really robust.  They may last over 100 years with minimal upkeep and lubrication!  Unfortunately, 100 years after they were installed it may  be difficult to find parts for them, and they like other kinetic mechanical systems will eventually fail.  The difficulty in procuring replacement parts means that it may well be less expensive to do a retrofit on the door than to fix the mortise lock.  Mortise locks were constructed with few standards and the placement of various features on the lock will be different than other mortise locks.

Putting a mag plate over the holes left by the mortise lock not only covers up unsightly holes, but reinforces the structural integrity of the door.  Without the mortise lock in the door there will be a large cavity, leaving perhaps 1/4 inch of wood on either side of the cavity.  A swift punch or kick near this spot and the door will quickly yield a large enough hole that the perpetrator might be able to reach the deadbolt above the hole and unlock it.  If there is a plate covering this spot, it will be nearly impossible for our perpetrator to force their way in.

Mag plates are pretty easy to install most of the time.  You need only take the lock off the door with a Phillips screwdriver, put the mag plate over the door so the holes line up, and put the lock back on the same way you took it off.  Make sure the door shuts because if the fit is tight you may need to get out your chisel and remove some wood from underneath the mag plate.  You may consider calling me at this point if you are inexperienced with a chisel.  If the door does close and the lock appears to be working properly, good job!  You can tighten everything up, put the four screws on the mag plate, and reflect on a job well done.

Pitfalls that may occur: Make sure you get the correct size of mag plate.  This requires measuring the thickness of the door, and measuring how far from the edge of the door the center of the lock is.  Also decide what color you want the mag plate to be.  When you go to the store, whether on the internet or in the real world, it may help if you have a picture of the door with you.  Consider getting a mag plate the same color as the lock it will go under.

Secondly, make sure the mag plate is on the door tight.  If it doesn’t line up with the holes perfectly when it is on tight, you may need to redrill the holes.

Third, when you install it if you are also drilling the holes, measure twice.  Make sure the plate is in the correct spot and covering up everything you need it to before you drill giant holes in your door.

I like to read technology news and sometimes this news intersects with my work as a locksmith.  Today I was reading about research (after reading it appears to only be speculation though) being done by men examining how secure or insecure automobiles’ internal data communications networks are.  This may be shocking to some, but your car has a computer in it communicating with different parts of the car.  The concern here is that somebody could be driving next to you on the freeway, dislike the bumpersticker on your car, and turn your car off using some app on his phone that exploits a bluetooth security hole in your car’s computer.  The researchers go so far as to list which vehicles they think are the least and most secure.  In the comments was a very interesting observation:

I work in the automotive after market (ECU tuning). I can actually back up what they’re saying. Even if they did come by it via speculation, they’re actually pretty much dead on.

That is primarily because the german cars use what we call a “Can Gateway” but is better of though as a firewall. Every different system in the car has it’s own private canbus. Anything that needs to travel between the busses has to go through the gateway. In the case of VW/Audi vehicles, it’s locked down quite well. It knows what packets belong on what bus and only allows a very limited subset of properly formatted and required packets to pass between those busses.

Vehicles that share common can without a gateway are readily exploitable. I could plug a can interface into the headlights, A/C or any other system on the global bus and lock/unlock the doors, roll the windows up/down, trigger the traction control/ABS or even start/stop the car (if it uses a push button start).

Doing those things requires access to the can wires, but the bus is used for so much now-a-days, there’s always plenty of places to access it. Many of them without requiring keys or an open hood.

So you have an entry knob and you want to disable it for some reason?  Maybe you keep locking yourself out or maybe you don’t want to pay a locksmith to rekey the knob since there is a perfectly good deadbolt just above it.  This is the situation I found myself in today.  My customer wanted to know if I could turn the Schlage knobs she had into passage knobs instead of buying new passage locks and also instead of rekeying the knobs to match the deadbolts.  She didn’t want to keep paying $38 extra every time I came to rekey her rental house, and she didn’t want to buy new passage locksets.

The solution to this is simple, for the type of lock that has a spindle going through the knob to a bit on the inside of the door where the knob can be locked by turning something.  This includes most cheaper knobs that can be purchased and installed oneself at the hardware store.  All one need do is cut the thin piece of metal off that turns back and forth inside the knob.  You can see in the picture above where the cut must be made.  Make sure the metal spindle is in the unlocked position before cutting it off because it will be pretty hard to turn after you cut it off.  If you don’t have a key that operates it you will have to pick the lock.

Once you put the knob back on the door you will notice that the inside locking mechanism on the knob will spin freely.  It will be impossible for someone to lock the door without the key.  Of course, you could just buy a passage knob at the hardware store for fifteen dollars or so and save your locking knob for replacement parts or sell it to somebody else on craigslist.  Or donate it to my efforts to secure the homes of those in need.

There are lots of different bicycle locks and they all have pros and cons.  For most people the choice is between a U lock and a cable lock with a padlock.  Last night I went to a celebration of bicycle culture in Seattle called “The Dead Baby Downhill 2014”, a bicycle race and afterparty featuring jousts from tall bicycles and even tall unicycles (tall bikes are bikes that are made of two bicycle frames welded together, one on top of the other).  As one might expect, there were hundreds of bicycles everywhere and some of the most enthusiastic cyclists around were there showing off their rigs.  This gave me insight into what is popular among bicycle messengers and others who use bicycles a lot.

Bicycle enthusiasts know that their rides are common targets of thievery, and they know many of the up and downsides of the locks available.  A lot of people don’t though, so here is a primer:

Many people think that U locks provide higher security than cable locks.  That is somewhat true but also false.  Many U locks can be removed more easily due to their inflexibility.  All that one need do to remove these is go to Harbor Freight and buy a car jack and put it inside the U lock and slowly spread it apart.  This is fast, silent and effective.  These locks often have disc detainer style keys and are usually really hard to pick unless you have the picks for them, and even most locksmiths do not have these lockpicks in the USA.  U locks are a good choice if you need to keep honest people and slightly dishonest people who don’t think things through very well from stealing your bicycle.  They will prevent people with bolt cutters from taking your frame, though they will not protect both of your wheels unless you take one of the wheels off the bike and pass the U lock through the frame and both wheels.  This is a little cumbersome. U locks will not stop people with bottle jacks or rotary cutting wheels though.

You can’t open Kryptonite locks with the plastic of a ballpoint pen anymore.  This was caused by Kryptonite using springs that were all the same tension, and this was a vulnerability that was discovered before Kryptonite started using their tubular locks.  They just didn’t do their research or forgot about it or something.  Now there is variable tension in their tubular locks, but many of their locks now use disc detainer locks.

Cable locks have a different set of advantages and vulnerabilities.  They are often steel braided cable which is easy to cut with bolt cutters.  These can also be broken by picking the bicycle up and twisting it off, using the length of the bicycle as a sort of lever.  This takes more time and is really suspicious looking though.  Cable locks can not be bypassed using a bottle jack or car jack.  They are also more difficult to pry off.  They are quite easy to cut off with bolt cutters though as well as rotary cutting wheels or angle grinders.  Cable locks are really good for locking your bicycle up if you have to run into a building really fast.  They weigh less and take up less space than a U lock.  You can stick whatever kind of lock you like on a cable lock unless there is a built in lock.  If there is a combo lock, there are ways to pick these I have learned from youtube videos and have had great success with.  Cable locks are not good to lock your bike with overnight in sketchy areas.  If you want to use a cable lock, get a longer one like twelve feet.  This makes it more difficult to twist the cable into breaking because the thief would have to twist that much longer.

Sometimes it is hard to find something to attach your cycle to.  It is easier to lock your vehicle up with a long cable because you can loop it around really big objects like trees if there are no signs or rails available.  Remember: The bike is only as secure as what you’re locking it to.

Chains can be really secure if they are of hardened steel.  You can buy a cheap length of chain from the hardware store but it will be easily cut through with boltcutters or even lineman’s pliers if the metal is soft and thin as most cheap chain is.  Also chain from the store will scratch the paint on your bike.  Unless you are willing to invest in a good security chain such as this Abus steel chain, you might as well get a cable lock.  The security chains are really good.  You can’t cut through them with most bolt cutters, it takes more time to angle grind them, and you can’t twist them off.  They come with a sleeve to protect your paint.  You can get them with integrated locks or use your own.  They are a little heavy.

Don’t trust other people to intervene if somebody is stealing your bike.  You can’t trust people in Seattle to do this, they are too passive, they don’t want to get involved in altercations.  They will most likely walk right past.  The most you can hope for is that they will use their iPhone to video the theft and post it on youtube.

The best thing to do is use some of these in conjunction with each other.  Of course don’t overdo it, you don’t want to be bicycling around with ten pounds of locks and taking five minutes to lock up your bike every time you get to your destination.  A U lock and a cable is a good combination of security though.  The U lock will hold your bike down and the cable can be used to lock up your wheels and seat.  It is a good idea to use a separate lock with the cable instead of threading the cable into the U lock.  Attach the U lock to the bottom rail of the bike and put it through your back wheel.  Attach it to something really sturdy, not just a chain link fence that can be cut with pliers.  If you want to buy a high quality bicycle lock drop me a line, I sell the Abus chains.  Don’t lose the keys because you will have to order those from the manufacturer if they are disc detainer keys.

I spent a lot of time researching which “high security” system I would buy into.  I did this because the manufacturer often requires that you “buy in” to their system, meaning you might have to spend $15,000 minimum to get the hardware and their confidence.  I didn’t want to blow this kind of money on just any system, I want a security product that provides my customers with very good security and great value.  I had to weigh the strengths and vulnerabilities of each manufacturer’s offerings.  I looked at Mul-T-Lock, Assa, Schlage, Medeco, and CX-5.

• One of Mul-T-Lock’s vulnerabilities among others is that with a certain kind of tape and a thin key one can bypass their locks, despite the brilliant engineering that went into their dimple keys and telescoping pin design.
• Medeco is just too expensive and their locks are finicky; they stop working when the smallest particle gets in the keyway. They are also not impervious to various methods of covert entry despite the hefty price tag.
• Schlage wants too much money for the Primus keyway and the cylinders wear out quickly.  Schlage wants too much money for nearly everything they make.  They charge me over $100 for an A series doorknob with a straight face.  List price for an A series knob from my distributor is nearly $200, and that doesn’t include a cylinder!  Also Primus keys are made of the same cheap brass that any key is, and these keys are vulnerable to breaking off in a lock if people are using the key to pull a door open.  Of course, Medeco’s Keymark keys are also vulnerable to shearing.  I like the Schlage Primus and its finger pin system a lot, but I want something less expensive.  Property owners in Seattle with money to burn can already select from a wide variety of locksmiths with high-priced locks.
• CX5 is good enough.  Reasonably high security, compatibility, not overly expensive, etc.  CX5 cylinders have all of the same benefits that a lock cylinder three times the price has.  CX5 cylinders exceed UL437 with hardened steel pins to prevent drilling, a sidebar, and they give me my own keyway that is geographically unique.  To recap, CX5 has all of the physical security benefits of a Medeco or Primus cylinder, but for half the price.  I pass on those savings to you.

I know that many property managers think they are “locked in” to some of these proprietary high security systems because those are the locks they have on their doors.  However, the cost of maintaining these systems may be greater than simply having me install the CX5 system once.  Consider the cost of duplicating keys.  Do you have to pay your locksmith to drive to your building for duplicates of your secure building key, or can you drive to them and save yourself $75?  How much are you getting charged per key?  Many locksmiths charge over $15 for a Medeco key.  If you need over 100 keys, that adds up quick!

If your current locksmith is charging you to come out and duplicate keys and is overcharging you for the keys on top of that, you can see how it would quickly save you money to have me replace your Medeco or Mul-T-Lock cylinders with CX5 cylinders.  My keys cost a lot less: only $8.50, and yet come with the same restricted key control as with the bigger names in security.  The blanks are made of high quality nickel silver so they will stand up to a reasonable amount of abuse.

So next time you need your building’s entry locks rekeyed, save yourself some money and call me for an estimate.  I can almost guarantee that it will cost you less to replace your cylinders with CX5 and distribute CX5 keys to all of your tenants than it will cost for your current locksmith to rekey and replace the current keys for your building, assuming you have some kind of protected keyway already installed.  If you want something that is restricted but not “high security” in that it doesn’t have steel pins or a sidebar, ask me about installing MX cylinders for even greater savings!